D300 Custom Settings (Version 1.0)

This is the first version of my Custom settings article. This same article has been updated and enriched with more info and can be found here: D300 Custom Settings (Version 2.0)

........................................................

Thankfully, with every generation of camera, setting them up for ones personal style is getting easier and more affective. I am posting my personal selections for the D300’s custom settings menu together with some commentary. You should note that I shoot wildlife and birds in the Greek landscape and use MF a lot, so my requirements and my personal style will not reflect yours.
I also would like to add that up until the D70 a lot off my choices were also heavily based on energy efficiency but since the D300 is more efficient and the batteries are of a larger capacity, some of my choices don’t factor in efficiency any more. So my selections, although fit for my style of shooting, may not be fit for your style. This is why you shouldn’t copy anyone else’s settings blindingly - read my commentary carefully and make up your own decisions.
Hope you find this article informative and would welcome your comments and suggestions at the end of this post.

a1: AF-C Priority Selection

RELEASE

As far back as I can remember Nikon photographers have been debating over the release versus focus issue of this option. Personally I have always used the “release” option. This choice was based on a test I had conducted over ten years ago with the Nikon F5 that showed that it was the better one to use. But that was such a long time ago so I decided to look the matter up to see what the consensus is today and I was amazed that a lot photographers prefer the “focus” option. So I decided to do another test just to get a better feel of where the AF system stands today. And sure enough the “release” option won once again.
Unlike the last time though, the differences between the results are so small that they really are not worth considering when choosing one of the three options. So you can choose what suites your workflow better without worrying if one will offer less chances of getting keepers than the other. So I see no need to change my choice of the “release” option.

a2: AF-S Priority Selection

FOCUS

I don’t use this option so I leave the factory setting as is.

a3: Dynamic AF area

21 POINTS

I have this option also available in the My Menu for easy access. For the majority of my shooting though, I use 21-points. It seems to be my most used selection for now.

a4: Focus tracking with lock on

NORMAL

I haven’t had a chance to even try this option yet. All my testing of the AF system so far has been with this option set at normal. This is a good sign for a couple of reasons: firstly, I have done a lot of successful tracking of birds amongst branches with the D300 without any hiccups plus I remember when using the D200, I had it disengaged to improve the AF, and so “normal” is a good choice for now.

a5: AF activation

AF-ON

This is an option that many photographers hesitate to try or simply find it hard to decide what’s best. For autofocusing I use the AF-ON button on the back of the camera simply because in my field of photography (nature & wildlife) it offers me the best of both worlds. Both AF (continuous and single mode) and MF are at my finger tips without removing my eyes from the viewfinder.

1. I can pre-focus using AF and then recompose after I have released my thumb from the AF-ON button
2. I can focus manually simply by not using the AF-ON button
3. I can focus continuously tracking the subject while pressing the AF-ON button continuously

I should point out though that I primarily use AF only for action since I still love the control that MF offers me (most of my focusing is done manually). I also need to point out that for this to work as advertised; you will have to have the AF mode selector on the front of the camera set to Continuous all the time which in itself is another advantage, since you don’t need to bother with that switch again (unless you have screwdriver lenses).

a6: AF point illumination

OFF

I turn this feature off, I’m not sure why, I seem to want a clean and unobtrusive viewfinder. If your shooting style includes long sessions and you need to conserve battery power, then turning off this feature will help.

a7: Focus point wrap-around

NO WRAP

Personally, I don’t see the need for the wrap around option, especially since now with option a8 I can have fewer points to select from making the whole procedure faster, easier on my thumb and with a more natural feel.

a8: AF point selection

11 POINTS

When I first got the camera and was thumbing my way through all 51 points, I thought to myself what a big waist of time trying to get to certain part of the frame. But then I discovered this option which is really great. It has no affect on AF, but rather reduces the points available only for their selection. This is a great option and I can’t see how anyone would not use this.

a9: AF assist illuminator

OFF

This is one setting which with all my previous cameras I had always chosen the off option mainly because I shoot wildlife and I rather not have any lights going off when I least expect it. But this does not mean that this is a useless gimmick. I have used this cool feature in the past at friend’s parties and night clubs where the lighting was minimal. So with an SB fitted on the camera and the red beam guiding the AF, I would get perfectly focused results every time while people where dancing in the darkness. So this is a nice feature to have for such situations but other than that, this option stays in the off position.

a10: AF-On for MB-D10

AF-ON

Since I use the AF-ON in the landscape orientation, I obviously would use it for the portrait orientation as well.

b1: ISO sensitivity step value

1/3 STOP

b2: EV steps for exposure control

1/3 STOP

b3: Exp comp/fine tune

1/3 STOP

b4: Easy exposure compensation

OFF

Although I have used this feature a lot and find it very handy and love it while using it, I have decided to leave this setting in the off position. This is because I have been “burnt” by it too many times. It’s great when you need it but when you don’t, the dials are unprotected and they will get moved. So since you usually have other things to worry about than checking whether you have accidentally added any compensation, the old fashioned way seems to be the safer choice.

b5: Center-weighted area

8mm

b6: Fine tune optimal exposure:

UNUSED

MATRIX

There are a lot of mistaken reports that the D300 overexposes and that it should be corrected by utilizing some form of correction. This is not true. Unlike previous models from Nikon, the new version of Matrix metering in the D300 (and most probably the D3) will try to utilize the right side of the histogram by exposing as much to the right as it thinks the subject will allow in an attempt to try and avoid the noise zone. It seems to also be utilizing some form of smart gamma correction on individual color channels as well. So in effect the new camera does not produce overexposed images, but brighter images. And this is the preferred result to get from a camera since reducing the brightness or correcting the black point in post processing produces cleaner files compared to trying the opposite of lightening up the shadows which intensifies noise. So before you go and use this correction tool, make sure your camera is actually overexposing which means it is burning beyond correction, needed highlights (and not spectral highlights).

SPOT & CENTER WEIGHTED

I suggest you use the following test to check the accuracy of your metering. On a bright sunny clear day and with the sun over your shoulder and behind you select an aperture of f/16 and a shutter speed the reciprocal of your chosen ISO. For example if you are using a setting of 200 ISO the shutter speed should be set at 1/200sec. Now with a normal to tele lens point the camera up towards the dark blue of the sky about 30-40 degrees above the horizon line. Your meter indication should show a correct reading. If you own a Kodak gray card, you can use that to measure the brightness from instead.
If you find your camera is off (beyond ½ stop), something I feel is very unlikely, then you can use this correction tool to compensate. But the real reason for doing this test is to see whether your matrix needs correcting as well. Because if your spot and center weighted metering systems are both off by the same amount then obviously the chances are high that matrix will be affected as well.
So if you feel you have a problem with wrong exposures, check your spot and center weighted metering systems first. If they don’t pass, then maybe you do have a problem that needs some correcting measures.

c1: Shutter-release button AE-L

OFF

If you are using matrix metering, it would be pretty pointless using this option. This could have been useful back in the old film days when using spot or center weighted for portraits and reframing techniques but I don’t use this option.

c2: Auto meter-off delay

8 seconds

I used to hate it when I would be looking at the top LCD contemplating what aperture to set and as I would go to change the aperture the LCD would blank out. But thankfully, those days are over. As I have mentioned earlier, I don’t use economy mode anymore, since I haven’t yet been able to deplete the batteries during any of my sessions with the D300. So 8 seconds sounds like a good number. If your shooting style includes long sessions and you need to conserve battery power, set 4 sec for this feature.

c3: Self-timer delay

2sec

I use this often for testing purposes so 2 sec is just long enough to let any mirror vibrations settle and not get me agitated while waiting. Plus I may use this while shooting macro or when using a teleconverter attached to my 500mm (tripod mounted) – it helps in getting sharper results since at such large magnifications vibrations are magnified. The mirror-up shooting mode combined with an electronic cable release (I have the MC-20) is the better option but when in a hurry I may just use the self timer.

c4: Monitor off delay

20sec

As I have mentioned earlier, I don’t use economy mode anymore, so 20 sec seem like a good number. Basically what I do now is tap the shutter button to turn off the screen while shooting if I’m too lazy to use the “play” button. If your shooting style includes long sessions and you need to conserve battery power, select 10 sec for this feature.

d1: Beep

OFF

This is one setting which with all my previous cameras I had always chosen the off option mainly because I shoot wildlife and I rather not have any beeps going off when I least expect it. If your shooting style includes long sessions and you need to conserve battery power, turn this feature off.

d2: Viewfinder grid display

OFF

With my D200 I had this option on all the time, but for some strange reason, now with the D300 I have this set to off. I think it has something to do with the fact that I love the new clear view with nothing interfering and don’t wont to ruin that feeling by using the grid. So I have left this option off ever since I got the camera. If your shooting style includes long sessions and you need to conserve battery power, turn this feature off.

d3: Viewfinder warning display

ON

I see no reason to turn this useful feature off so I leave this as is.

d4: CL mode shooting speed

4FPS

With the D300 I now have 6 & 8 fps for high speed action shooting, so 4 fps feels like a good speed for trying to capture face expressions without wasting too many frames, any slower and its getting too slow. So 4fps is my choice for people and portraiture.

d5: Max. continuous release

100

I only shoot RAW, so this has no affect for me. It may be useful to high speed JPEG shooters.

d6: File No. Sequence

ON

This is another of those options I have always set to on as soon as I get the camera. It just gives me an indication of the number of shutter actuations fired.

d7: Shooting Info Display

AUTO

The info display is one of the many new features of the D300 that I like but after a couple of months of using the new camera, I find myself still not using it as often as I should since I still find myself using the top LCD. Hope this will become second nature soon. As for the d7 option I recommend auto simply because the dark version is no good for daylight shooting and the light version is too bright for night time shooting. Auto will use the appropriate setting according to ambient light levels, pretty cool.

d8: LCD Illumination

OFF

For as long as I can remember, I had this feature set to off on all my Nikons. I can’t see any reason why anyone would want this on, since switching on the LCD illumination is easy and quick from the ON-OFF dial.

d9: Exposure Delay Mode

OFF

If you do landscapes without a cable release, this may interst you. The mirror goes up and the shutter actuation happens seconds later giving a chance for any vibrations to settle first. I don’t use it since I still have my old MC-20 cable.

d10: MB-D10 Battery Type

Ni-MH

The AA battery holder of the MB-D10 has put my rechargeable batteries back in use.

d11: Battery Order

MB-D10

Obviously you want to deplete the batteries in the pack first.

e1: Flash sync speed

1/320 FP

e2: Flash shutter speed

1/60

e3: Flash control for built-in flash

COMMANDER

• Built In/off
• Group A/TTL 0
• Group B/TTL -0.7

e4: Modeling Flash

OFF

e5: Auto Bracket Set

AE ONLY

I don’t seem to use this feature anymore, but in case I do, I rather bracket AE only and leave the flash alone.

e6: Auto Bracketing Manual Mode

FLASH ONLY

e7: Auto Bracket Order

UNDER/METER/OVER

f1: Multi Selector Center Button

PLAYBACK/ZOOM/LOW

f2: Multi-selector

OFF

f3: Photo info/playback

OFF

f4: Assign FUNC Button

FLASH OFF

f5: Assign Preview Button

FLASH VALUE LOCK

f6: Assign AE-L/AF-L Button

SPOT

f7: Customize Command Dials

• REVERSE ROTATION/ON
• CHANGE MAIN SUB/ON
• APERTURE SETTING/ON
• MENUS AND PLAYBACK/OFF

I never liked the orientation of the dials and especially the exposure graph. They all seemed wrong, so I was especially happy that now I can have things changed to my liking. I can reverse the rotation of the command dials so their rotation matches the direction of the graph (see f10 below). So when using Manual exposure mode, rotating either dial towards the right (away from the lens) will add exposure and left (towards the lens) will reduce the exposure. These adjustments add to a more natural way of using the camera.

f8: Release Button to Use Dial

OFF

f9: No Memory Card

LOCK

f10: Reverse Indicators for Exposure

-0+

I can now reverse the exposure graph so that it reads in the more natural way of starting from minus on the left and gaining positive values towards the right.

SHOOTING MENU:

• BANK A: 12bit Compressed STD (SH:0, CO:A, BR:0, SA:2)
• BANK B: 12bit Uncompressed STD (SH:0, CO:A, BR:0, SA:2)
• BANK C: 12bit Uncompressed STD (SH:0, CO:A, BR:0, SA:2) Auto ISO (125/1600)
• BANK D: 14bit Uncompressed STD (SH:0, CO:A, BR:0, SA:2)
  

MY MENU

• AUTO ISO
• IMAGE REVIEW
• BUILT-IN FLASH
• GRID DISPLAY
• DYNAMIC AF AREA
• ACTIVE D-LIGHTING